Dry Lining joints correctly: 8 steps to the perfect acrylic joint

Compared to silicone joints, acrylic joints offer the main advantage Dry Lining that acrylic can be painted over. Added to this is the easy processing and versatility of this material. Acrylic can be used as a joint sealant, to seal cracks indoors and outdoors, as a repair filler and for various assembly work (e.g. window installation, RAL assembly).
White acrylic is usually used for dry construction and for grouting doors and windows , which can then be further coated with plaster, mineral paint, dispersion, varnish or another decorative or protective coating. However, there are also colored and transparent acrylics that you can use to create color-coordinated joints. If you no longer like the color later, but the joint is still intact, you can also paint over the colored or transparent acrylic as desired.
Different steps to the perfect Dry Liningjoint
Step: Clean the joint
If the joint is to be filled for the first time, it is sufficient if it is clean and dry . Loose parts can be easily removed with a cloth, brush or vacuum cleaner. If you want to renew an old joint, the old sealant must first be removed. Get as much out as possible with your hand, a knife or a joint scraper and rework with water, soap and, if necessary, a silicone remover. After removing all residues, clean and disinfect the grout as described above.
Step 1: Tape off the edges
This is advisable if you have never drawn a fugue before. Many professionals also use masking and swear by the fact that it makes their work easier. However, with the water-soluble acrylic it is far less critical if something goes wrong than with silicone, which is difficult to remove again. So masking is mainly a matter of setting. You can define the joint edges beforehand with adhesive tape in order to work as cleanly as possible. Or you can rely on the joint smoother, which also removes residue from the contact surfaces, and wipe away leftover residue or veils with a damp cloth after the joint has dried.
Step: prepare the cartridge gun
Cut off the tip of the acrylic cartridge , leaving an opening. Leave enough of the small plastic thread, because the enclosed plastic tip will now be screwed onto it. Because the opening of the screw-on tip is much too small for most joints, you also have to cut it to size - preferably diagonally and at an angle of about 45°.
Step: Insert the acrylic cartridge into the press
Insert the cartridge tip first, then the entire cartridge into the caulking gun. Squeeze the handle at the end to create pressure and pump material to the tip. Once you see the acrylic at the opening, release the pressure using the mechanism on the back of the press. You will also use this release mechanism again and again while the joint is being drawn in order to regulate the flow of material by dosing the pressure. When the cartridge is ready for use, you can start filling the joint.
Step: pull acrylic joint
Position the press at an angle of approx. 45°, apply pressure with the hand lever and move the opening as evenly as possible over the joint while filling it with the acrylic. If that goes too fast, use the release mechanism to relieve pressure. If it's too slow, apply more pressure to the trigger grip. Don't take away the press if too much material comes out, just keep going with less pressure. Just don't stress and hectic when grouting : You can take care of irregularities or protrusions later at your leisure.
Step: Pull off the acrylic joint
Smooth the grout evenly with the grout tool. In between, rub the excess acrylic on paper or a cloth. Only touch the grout with the grout float: finishing touches with your fingers come after, and paper or rags are only for cleaning the grout tool.
Step: Smooth acrylic joint with water
Pour water into a bowl or spray bottle. Now either spray the acrylic joint lightly with water and then gently run your finger over it, or simply dip your finger in the water. If the joint looks perfect (or smooth and nice enough) beforehand, you can save yourself the additional smoothing. Under no circumstances should you press, knead or scratch the joint. Because not only can you ruin the picture, but you can also work water into the acrylic, which affects the sealing effect.
Step: finalize the acrylic joint
After drawing the acrylic joint , wait for the drying time . It is specified by the manufacturer on the packaging. During this time, do not touch the fresh joint or the tape if you used any. Only when the acrylic is completely dry may it be plastered, painted over or loaded.
Once the sealant has fully cured (acrylic remains plastering a bit plastic even after it has dried), you can remove the masking tape and rework the edges if necessary. Depending on the location and thickness of the residue, you can use a damp cloth, scraper, spatula or fine sandpaper. However, do not grind or sand, if this could damage the grouted surface.